Stainless steel, cast iron or nonstick pan: which one for what?

People often ask me, “Which pan should I buy?” My answer is always the same: it depends on what you cook. Here’s how I sort it out.

Nonstick: the everyday pan

Perfect for eggs, omelets, crêpes and fish — anything that sticks easily. You cook with very little fat.

Its limits: the coating wears out (count on a few years), you shouldn’t heat it empty or over very high heat, and metal utensils are out. It also won’t give you those nice browned bits for a sauce.

Stainless steel: for searing and making sauces

Indestructible, and it goes in the oven and the dishwasher. This is the pan for browned bits: the meat sticks a little, browns, and all you need to do is deglaze with a splash of wine or stock to get a sauce full of flavor.

Its downside: everything sticks if you go about it the wrong way. But there’s a simple technique.

Cooking in stainless steel without sticking

1. Heat the pan empty over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes.
2. Do the water drop test: if it scatters and sizzles, it’s not hot enough. If it forms a bead that rolls around the pan, it’s ready (that’s the Leidenfrost effect).
3. Add the fat, then the food, and leave it alone: it will release on its own once it’s properly seared.

Cast iron and carbon steel: for high heat

Cast iron and carbon steel (the famous “black steel” pan of professional kitchens) handle the highest temperatures and become naturally nonstick as they get seasoned. Perfect for well-seared meat, sautéed potatoes or galettes. They need a little care: dry them straight away and wipe on a film of oil after every wash.

The trio I recommend

Pan	For	Recommended size
Nonstick	Eggs, crêpes, fish	24 cm
Stainless steel	Meat, vegetables, sauces	28 cm
Cast iron or carbon steel	High-heat searing, potatoes	26 to 28 cm

If you’re only getting one to start with, go for the nonstick: it’s the easiest. Add the stainless steel one as soon as you want to make sauces.